Tonga: East Coast of 'Eua 19 - Makalea Cave

Ian Stehbens, on October 6, said:

EXPLORING THE RUGGED EAST COAST OF 'EUA

Part 19

On our return to the home of our hosts, after Day One, we were treated with honour and served with an abundance of hot food which was followed by hot water and a long sleep.

Day Two commenced with high spirits, for we knew now what was likely to be in store. Setting off without water, seemed to my Australian way of thinking a bad move, but knowing my Tongan friends as I did, I was assured. The vehicle was able to deliver us to a place where we knew where we were. Back to the intersection of two forestry tracks, Rooney and McDonald Roads. There a sign there – that tells you where you are – except that it forgets to tell you where you are! But we knew now, and so it was off to Makalea Cave first. We had seen it briefly yesterday, so now was the opportunity to examine it a wee bit more. How the local vehicles negotiate these boggy tracks is any one’s guess, but a winch and a long chain seems like a good idea. For us nimble footed people, it was simply a skip across each rut or a short bush-bashing detour into the forest to pass another bog.

Makalea Cave is in a grazed clearing, easy to find, and the sign still stands. But the clearing contained some of the finest cattle I had ever seen. The tethered bull was in prime condition. The tethered cows were too. But my Tongan companions baulked a little and had to give the bull a very wide berth. Having grown up with cattle, and having spent long hours taking them to pasture in a drought, grooming them, milking them, being an occasional midwife for the delivery of another calf or even twin calves, cows were my friends. I learnt to communicate with them in cow language. One sound makes them calm, another makes them alert, another suggests a bull is present, yet another appeals to their curiosity. The Tongans were open-mouthed as I spoke to the bull and he came to me, and allowed me to touch his muzzle. Then when I dismissed him he moved away allowing me to pass. “How do you do that?” was the first question. “I simply moo in their language,” I replied. “Do you realize that cattle speak the same language all over the world. I can’t yet understand your Tongan language, but Tongan cows and I speak the same lingo!” This followed with a lesson in cow language as I told them what each moo meant. On and off for the next two days, one or other of the guys would suddenly practice his “Mooing” especially whenever a cow was seen in the distance. They were never game up close. I guess they weren’t at all keen to mistakenly call “Charge!” when they meant “Be at peace, Mr Bull.” Nor did they want to say, “I am a cow, Mr Bull!” when they meant “I am a bull, Mrs Cow”. Learning a new language can be tricky!

As we arrived at Makalea Cave again, I settled just to observe all the pekepeka-tae flying and feeding on the wing, while the boys settled to practice their mooing! Lisiate was determined to learn this new language. So if you ever come to ‘Eua and hire a local guide who calls the cattle, you will know when and where he had his first lessons.

The pekepeka (small sheath-tailed bats) and pekepeka tai (black and white swifts or swallows) are cave dwellers here. The bats navigate and feed by their echo-location ability and they never miss the insect they pursue, it seemed to me, for I had watched them the previous evening. This morning it was the the birds that were out and I was mesmerised. They live in the caves, flitting in and out of the darkness, but as we gathered around the rim of the collapsed section of cavern roof, they retreated to the field to feed frenetically.

On our entering the cave, the pekepka tai left, the stalactites remained, and the sound of mooing began to echo hauntingly!

bdeh, on October 6, said:

Nice story again Ian. Greetings Berend

M.Kranenborg-Torn, on October 6, said:

Thanks for the info. Nice picture. Greetings from Greetje.

Ian Stehbens, on October 7, said:

Dear Berend and Greetje,

I am very grateful that you have read it and appreciate the story.

Kindest regards,

Ian

Amelia Royan, on October 8, said:

Wonderful description dear Ian, particularly the language bit... ;-)

It can be so difficult to learn cow lingo, and I can see the difficulties that might arise from a careless, mispronounced 'Moo', even worse is the wrong inflexion on the vowels. And I can only begin to imagine the problems your Tongan companions might have with the use of verb tenses in 'Moo' too, but I'm sure you are an excellent teacher.

As for the wonders of the bats and swallows in the cave; with all the mooing and the echoes as well, I hope they don't decide to up sticks and move, leaving only the stalactites, and even they might shatter if the echoes create a particular resonance :)

Warm greetings, Amelia

gezginruh, on October 8, said:

.... so i think you're a world teacher. And i'm very happy for meeting such a perfect teacher. Füsun.

《阿鵬》B@ngk☺k, on October 10, said:

Oh, from your narration, it's not easy to access this mystically beautiful cave entrance.

w☺rap☺ng《阿鵬》from Thailand

Ian Stehbens, on October 10, said:

Dear sisters, Amelia and Füsun.

Your willingness to read my story incites more, Amelia. Thanks indeed. One of the local papers here is at the editor meeting stage considering asking to publish it as some kind of serial with images! I am not sure whether they will translate to Tongan or publish in English. So your comments are helping to shape what I write for the next images in the series - until we reach the other end of the island. Wait till you see the whales! Then I'll have something to talk with you about especially as you are in Norski land.

When we left the cave both the pekapeke and the pekapeke tai returned. And the "cows" settled down once they were descending the steeps to Lokupo Beach! But I am sure they haven't forgotten how careful one must be with inflections. So story has been good to write and allow friends from around the world to taste a little of this far-off corner of the globe.

And Füsun, I have written you another poem today - composed 'at Istanbul University' I imagine. You are the teacher that excited me to write poetry, so I hope I continue to develop well under your tutelage. I am serious. Thanks for bringing it out of me.

Warmest of regards,

Ian

thor☼odin™, on October 10, said:

lol you're a perfect cowwhisper Ian and not bullish at all smiles Best wishes from DK, Peter

Ian Stehbens, on October 13, said:

Hi Peter,

I found plenty of cows in DK! And we all spoke the same language!! LOL. Ian