Climbing Junkie Story #8, Doing Time on a Ledge

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This is one my Addictive Climbing Stories. It contains a climbing photo with a story. -Randy

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Comments (16)

Randy T (Randylikest… on February 20, 2012

Overcoat Peak Story

Overcoat Peak Story

  • For me, this photo sums up the main story of Overcoat Peak. In the center of the photo, there is a ledge where 4 engineers ended up in a Bivouac. That is right; four of us with all kinds of climbing equipment, food, water, everything,… but somehow we all left three of the four headlamps at the base of the climb.

  • Overcoat Peak Slide Show

  • I first became interested in climbing Overcoat Peak while on Chimney Rock. This Photo was taken near the summit of Chimney Rock, and Overcoat Peak is the evil looking summit in the background. Once we made the summit, we regrouped and made a Bivouac on this ledge with this amazing view of Overcoat Peak.

  • Even though it was a warm and dry August night, it was hard to stay warm while tied in, sitting on our ropes, and in a huddle. The western face on Overcoat Peak is amazing view, and can be seen on the left from our Bivy photo. It was during this time that I started hatching a new route on the West face. I have seen Overcoat’s West face many times before, and it has a very ominous, not-climbable look. Fred Beckey has a shorter route on the East face, however my plan is to climb it in one night/2 days from Snoqualmie Pass via a blitz on the West face. In the morning ,as the sun shined on the shorter East face (Right), we happily made our exit from our insane Bivy ledge located at the base of the huge overhanging crack, directly below the summit, and above the right snow patch. You may have to click on the photo if you want to see the details.

  • The climb: From Snoqualmie Pass, I hiked the Cascade Crest Trail, passed the cat walk, Alaska Lake, Joe Lake, then climbed up and over Chikamin Peak to arrive at my bivouac just below this tarn . The next morning, I traversed under Lemah Mountain and Chimney Rock to discover the beautiful Avalanche Lake . Overcoat Peak can be seen to the extreme right of this photo. Skirting the lake and climbing higher, I finally had a good look at the West Face. I was not certain that I would find a route because all of the cliffs and broken blocky labyrinth of rock. But, my plan was well rehearsed mentally.

  • While climbing the 900’+ West face, it was sometimes difficult with all of the rock outcrops to keep my baring. My first goal was a small dark gendarme. Once there ,I continued up until the finish of the standard route. To my amusement, I found a bunch of slings tied together to help some poor soul down the final chimney. Once on top, I took a short break, ate, enjoyed the views, and then carefully negotiated my way back down the West face, back to my bivy, and then home. It was about the end of the rock climbing season and I was very pleased with this beautiful summit and the interesting challenges I had found.

Randy

Catherine A on February 20, 2012

Nice view, not to be missed. Catherine.

Randy T (Randylikest… on February 21, 2012

Thank you Catherine and Mariano!

Randy

Joel Skok on February 22, 2012

Randy, just spent 20 minutes (that I really didn't have available) weaving through your delightful account and following every photo lead you gave. Can't wait to come across that moss covered tarn picture so I can comment about it. Remarkable work Randy, a real delight for me. I salute your significant efforts in putting this together. LIKE

BOGDAN de Varsovie on February 26, 2012

Excellent photo. Like. Best Regards. Bogdan

Randy T (Randylikest… on February 27, 2012

Joel,

  • Thank you, I hope to post another story soon.

Bogdan,

  • Thank you for your like and comments.
mauro a. (alpino47) on March 1, 2012

Wonderful pictures in the Slide Show and perfect presentation of this climb. Mauro Like

Randy T (Randylikest… on March 2, 2012

Thank you Mauro! I would love to hear one of your stories.

Randy

LEIRE13 on March 4, 2012

Like nº 5.

Nice place and photo.

Salud2...from Spain...

MC Seattle on March 4, 2012

I'd climb it, but it can get so crowded up on that cliff during weekends. :) Just kidding. Love the cloud effect. Nice story.

Andrea Riberti on March 15, 2012

It is soooo beautiful! Ciao, Andrea

Randy T (Randylikest… on March 16, 2012

Andre,

I agree with you. I spent just a small amount of time there! One night is not enough!

Randy

senmax on March 24, 2012

Excellent photo! Like!

Randy T (Randylikest… on March 24, 2012

Thank you Senmax

Randy

odeveld on March 27, 2012

A fantastic view! My compliments LIKE! With friendly greetings from Belgium, Odeveld

Randy T (Randylikest… on March 28, 2012

odeveld,

Thank you for your visit and all of you comments.

Randy :)

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Photo details

  • Uploaded on February 20, 2012
  • © All Rights Reserved
    by Randy T (Randylikest…
    • Camera: SONY CYBERSHOT
    • Taken on 2005/08/06 19:16:52
    • Exposure: 0.004s (1/230)
    • Focal Length: 7.00mm
    • F/Stop: f/4.000
    • ISO Speed: ISO100
    • Exposure Bias: 0.00 EV
    • No flash

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